jamie emerson's blog

Colorado Bouldering Guidebook Embarrassment

First I will ask a bunch of questions that have not been answered by either Falcon Press or Bob. Failure to even address these issues seems to show a lack of concern or knowledge on the subject.

Why is an area (with a picture) included in this guidebook that was destroyed (to build a dam) 7 years ago? Was the author, who asserts himself as an expert (having gotten standing ovations for his work) unaware of this?

Why are there several areas that are on private property listed in the guidebook?  Does the author share the concerns of the community at large that having climbers tramping around private areas is bad for both landowners and climbers alike? 

The Colorado Bouldering Guide Book Embarrassment

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I have said it once and I will say it again.
First of all, this guidebook is an absolute embarrassment.  There are mistakes throughout the book and seeing how it is the first of its kind for world class areas like Mt. Evans and Chaos Canyon, these mistakes are inexcusable. Having spent more than 365 days (literally) bouldering in Chaos Canyon I feel that I know the place as well as anyone. To begin with I will discuss Chaos Canyon.  Nearly every single problem in the Chaos Canyon section is mislabled or misgraded.  This is not a matter opinion, as I was present for the first ascent of many of the problems Bob attempts to describe.  Bob couldn't have climbed these problems because they were beyond his ability, being some of the hardest problems in the world. Here is a list of problems, off the top of my head, that are wrongly described, either by name, grade or area in Chaos Canyon alone:

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