August 22 (Day 114)

I slept well in my tent last night. It was just cold enough that I had to get into my sleeping bag.

When I got up this morning, I wasn't sure how far I was going to be walking today. I didn't know whether the hiking was going to be very difficult or not.

From the Liberty Springs Campsite, the ridgeline wasn't far, and soon after reaching the ridgeline, I got above treeline, at which point I could see just about everything. It was a very clear day and I could see for miles and miles in every direction.

The trail followed the ridgeline, very rocky and very abruptly up and down all the time. At the Galehead Hut I took a short break, and I decided that I would walk 8 more miles to see if I could arrange a work-for-stay at the Zealand Falls Hut.

After climbing out of the Galehead Hut, I passed a guy on the trail whom I recognized and who was headed southbound. I had last seen him in the Smokey Mountains, but I couldn't remember his name, although he did remember mine. Apparently he got to Harper's Ferry in mid-July and has flip-flopped and is now headed back south.

I eventually made it to the Zealand Falls Hut, which I recognized from the time Amelia and I hiked here.

There were already several people (thru-hikers) at the hut who had arranged to work-for-stay, so I knew they wouldn't need me. While I was sitting there, trying to decide what to do, two people walked in to check in and said that their group of four was now just two, meaning that there were now two free bunks. I was able to snag on of these free bunks, so now I have a place to stay.

I ran into another person I recognized here at the hut. I met Water Lady back at the shelter I stayed at the day I left the NOC. She was just doing a section up into the Smokies, and now she's up here hiking in the Whites with her granddaughter. She recognized me, but she didn't remember my name (but she did remember that I was in the Army).

Clouds are gathering, and the weather is not supposed to be as nice for the rest of the week.

August 23 (Day 115)

Walking into that open guest spot at the Zealand Hut was really excellent yesterday. The dinner was an amazing turkey dinner, and they served the most amazing bread I've eaten in a long time. Amazingly enough, there were no loud snorers in the bunkroom, and then breakfast this morning was pancakes. All that and I was still able to get back on the trail by 7:30.

The walk down to Crawford Notch was easy, and I'm now walking over the same section of trail Amelia and I hiked in 2003. Some places seem familiar, but I can't be too sure. There are pretty large differences in the way the trail looks depending on if you walk through in late August versus early June.

All the weather forecasts indicated that the weather would be taking a turn for the worse over the next few days, and they were right. The weather is not terrible, but all the peaks and the ridgeline are in and out of clouds, the wind has definitely picked up, and there are chances of thunderstorms.

I pushed hard today and probably will continue to do so, because it's just not worth it to spend any more time than necessary up on the ridge unless I have to.

I'm by the Lakes of the Clouds Hut, which is the largest and busiest of the huts since it's right here by Mount Washington. There's an emergency shelter here called "The Dungeon," which they allow thru-hikers to use, and which I'll be staying in tonight. No free food tonight, but at least a place to stay.