First I will ask a bunch of questions that have not been answered by either Falcon Press or Bob. Failure to even address these issues seems to show a lack of concern or knowledge on the subject.

Why is an area (with a picture) included in this guidebook that was destroyed (to build a dam) 7 years ago? Was the author, who asserts himself as an expert (having gotten standing ovations for his work) unaware of this?

Why are there several areas that are on private property listed in the guidebook?  Does the author share the concerns of the community at large that having climbers tramping around private areas is bad for both landowners and climbers alike? 

It is the responsibility of a guidebook author to include as much accurate information as possible. Why was no one else consulted on such an admittedly enormous task? Typically, other endeavors of such  a volume of information would be peer reviewed, why was this one not?

Perhaps the author is out of touch with what has been going on in the bouldering community, but why wouldn't he acknowledge this and ask younger climbers about areas he obviously knows little about?

Why were the rangers at Mt. Evans not contacted?

Why is there little or no mention of the weather, altitude, or other major concerns that one encounters when bouldering in these alpine areas?    

Why did the author not ask anyone for permission to film people at Mt. Evans? Not only is this behaviour rude and shady but you certainly didn't have my permission.

Why did you publish pictures of climbers who didn't know their photo was being taken on a previous occasion? Another example of being shady. 

Why is there nothing in your book about stashing pads, though this has been the number one access issues for the two most important areas in your "guidebook"? 

Now I will respond to each and every point you make.

 "Thanks so much for divulging the information that you and your crew have kept somewhat seclusive for so long."

I haven't kept Chaos a secret whatsoever. In fact I found out about Chaos Canyon because of several articles written in the NATIONAL climbing publication Climbing Magazine.  When I was working at the local gym I had printed up a directions sheet of accurate information so that peope that asked at the front counter could get good beta.  This sheet was probably more effective in getting people to the area then Colorado Bouldering.  Phillip Benningfield, (the other guidebook author) and others, appearently you as well, have known about Evans for a long time. I felt the need to divulge information on this site because you fail to do so in the guidebook.

"I find it interesting, how on your website, B3, you describe your finding these pristine gems of rock and your modus operendi for setting your course upon them. Sounds like a real" leave no trace" agenda."

Bouldering has been taking place for a long time and with the work of concerned groups I do what I can to leave as little trace as possible,  I make every attempt to follow the rules and regulations of each area and work WITH the management groups, not against them. Again Bob, I may or may not be a hypocrite, but that is irrelevant to my argument.  This is about the guidebook that you wrote, not about me.

"Your record of state of the art ascents has been obvious to me as I watched the boulders change over the years. Ten years ago, when you were just starting out on your bouldering quest, I was finishing the manuscript for my 5th bouldering guide better know as "Best of Boulder Bouldering".

This edition that you speak of has been the source of much frustration for me and many other climbers I know, as the descriptions to the problems and areas are poorly written, further evidence that you have written inaccurate books in the past.   You use my inexperience as an argument but there are numerous climbers that I have spoken to the are well into their 40s or 50s that feel this guidebook hurts the climbing community as a whole. 

 "When I complied the info for Mount Evans and Rocky Mountain, I chose to keep the descriptions brief, and expose very little in comparison to what I could tell had been done, or that you claim to have developed. When editing the manuscript which was much larger at the time their were a few discrepencies and it is obvious to those of us you know the areas. I find them quite minor and will not affect you state of the arters, and certainly not affect those new learners who could careless about the elitist boulderer."  

First of all, we are all aware of your previous and lackluster efforts in documenting bouldering in Colorado. Literally Hundreds of mistakes in this new edition hardly constitutes "a few discrepencies" Perhaps our names our different then the ones you gave these rocks, however, you often use the names we gave them, simply on the wrong boulders. These mistakes undermine the fundamental purpose of a guidebook. To get people that have never been to an area, to the area, safely and within the rules of the land that the climbing lies on.  What have I done to be an elitist boulderer? Share accurate information with as many people as I can? Be friendly and approachable?

"Also Mr. B3 makes many false claims as to what transpired when I met the NC3 up at Mount Evans, I had said that we sent the manuscript to the rangers at Rocky Mountain National Park, which we did and it was okayed."

I was told otherwise, but if this is the case then I was wrong and I apologize for being critical. 

"I also told the NC3 that the book had been sent to be printed back in May, Mr. NC3 deceived the rangers at Mount Evans saying that it had not yet been printed."

You told Cameron that you were not going to include Area D, I heard that out of your own mouth. But Area D is in there. You also told Cameron that you had talked to the rangers.  When the Rangers at Mt. Evans were asked about this, the Rangers that Cameron, and the NC3 have worked so hard to develop a relationship to secure access to for everyone,  said they had never heard of you. In fact here is a letter, written to Bob Horan from the ranger staff at Mt. Evans

Dear Mr. Horan:

The Clear Creek Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests would like to express our concern regarding the inclusion of the Chicago Lakes bouldering area in your new guidebook being published by Falcon Press. 

The Chicago Lakes bouldering areas are located within the congressionally designated Mount Evans Wilderness. While bouldering itself is a legitimate activity within Wilderness, we have seen an increase in the number of issues arising as the bouldering in Mount Evans gains popularity. Trampling of vegetation and social trail development, the cutting of vegetation to “improve” areas surrounding boulder problems, dog conflicts and the stashing of bouldering pads and other gear, are all issues of concern that are inconsistent with preservation of the Wilderness environment. 

We have been working with members of the local bouldering community to reduce the impacts and problems found in Mount Evans and keep these bouldering opportunities as unrestricted as possible. They share our concerns that increased use due to additional publicity of the area may reverse any gains we are making.

Given the problems we are already seeing, the publication of this area in any sort of bouldering guide can only serve to increase use and compound the existing problems. Because we are responsible for preserving designated Wilderness in its natural state in perpetuity, we strongly discourage the publication of any guidebook which may draw more visitors and accompanying impacts to any area within the Wilderness. 

We realize we do not have the authority to stop you and or other authors from publishing the area in a guidebook. However, we do have an opportunity to educate boulderers on how to lessen their impact and help protect this beautiful and unique wilderness environment. I encourage you to work with Patti Turecek, recreation planner, 303-567-3017, or Ralph Bradt, lead wilderness ranger, 303-275-5634, whom are both climbers, to include an educational component in your guidebook. This will assist boulderers on ways to lessen their impact and ensure bouldering in the Mount Evans area is sustainable for the future.

Sincerely, 

DANIEL A. LOVATO

District Ranger 

To this, Bob Horan has made no response that I know of. If a guidebook author cares, has a vested interest in Mt. Evans and the community at large, doesn't it seem logical that he would contact these rangers immediately? Again, the authors motivation immediately comes into question.

"B3's comments sound more on the verge of maniac and his righteous claims of who and what makes a good guide book ambiguous. Maybe he should write a book since he is so knowing of how they should be done." 

My desire to have a guidebook filled with accurate information is a pretty basic one.  I think that everyone that uses a guide book or map or any other type of informative resource does so with the understanding the that the information is accurate!  Time and again I have tried to put the emphasis on the climbing community as a user group.  I don't have a problem with an accurate guidebook that has the blessing of the the community and the support of the organizations that manage the land.  This book fails miserably in doing that.  I again encourage everyone to check out the guidebook and see for yourself. The scope of the errors will stand out immediately.  I do not endorse this book and I stand by my statement that it is a waste of time and money. I will happily give anyone free beta for any problem in the state.

Jamie Emerson