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Bouldering Colorado by BOB HORAM has wrong information.

Hello all,      The books section on the Three Sisters Park I found a little upsetting.  All of the route names are wrong and some of the names of the blocks are not even the correct blocks.  If fact whole areas were mislabeled and miss leading.  Myself and about six others put up almost all for the problems in this area (which does not even show the best routes and leaves out about 99% of the problems that currently exist) and I feel it is time to set the record straight.  If Three Sister is going to start showing up in guide books lets get it right and lets publish the best problems with there correct names.  If Falcon wants the real info then please contact me.  It's time to get it right people.

Thanks REI for hosting Bouldering Colorado Presentations

The November presentations at REI in Boulder, Lakewood, Englewood, Denver, and Colorado Springs were enjoyable and appreciated by those who attended. Not only were still images presented but video footage of a wide range of boulder problems from V0 to V12.  Their was also images and video footage of 5th class single pitch routes, such as Rainbow Wall, China Doll, Sonic Youth to name a few as well as multi-pitch big wall shots of King of Swords on the Diamond, Stratosphere, on the Painted Wall, and Childhoods End on Big Rock Candy Mountain. The images and video footage was intermixed with climbing drawings and paintings.  The images spanned thirty years of bouldering and climbing. THANKS AGAIN REI,YOU ROCK!

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Bouldering at the Heart of Climbing

Bouldering is at the heart of all climbing. A boulderer must utilize gymnastic, acrobatic, and aerobatic techniques.  The outcrops and boulders are the apparatuses, and each individual problem is a unique performance. Strength, dexterity, poise, grace, and balance all can be developed on the boulders. For the serious boulderer, difficulty and style are equal goals.  Endurance and recovery also are greatly enhanced through bouldering, and it is on the short cliffs that the all-important mental parameters of the sport are honed.  

Almost fifty years ago, bouldering was seen as practice climbing-training for the larger world of techinical rock climbing.  For many practioners today, bouldering is firmly established as an end in itself. Defining climbing is incomplete without the inclusion of bouldering and in a sense defines climbing, for it is the evolution of bouldering moves, performed close to the ground, and their ever increasing levels of difficulty, that eventually get applied high up on the rock walls. In retrospect one should not expect to do difficult sequences high off the ground if one can not simulate them on boulders close to the ground.  This is were the effectiveness of training on the boulders, enhances your route solution solving abilities and strength when leading high up on the cliffs.

Perfect season for bouldering

Now that fall is upon us, and the days are much cooler and crisp, bouldering areas couldn't be more friendly.  This past week-end a group of us made our way into the Flatirons of Boulder, Colorado. First we made a stop at the Terrain Boulders, and were happy to traverse and boulder out many of the classics.  This area about ten plus years ago was a somewhat new destination for many boulderers and a welcome alternative for the local who for years climbed the same problems on Flagstaff over and over again. The next day we went up Shadow Canyon and bouldered on some trail side rocks below the Matron, their wasn't a soul insight which made for a serene and quite day amidst the changing fall colors.  This is often what makes bouldering exploration so fun and now that their are so many alternatives, you usually have the areas to yourself, save for the contemporary, en vogue areas which usually over time return to their original obscurity.  We plan a trip to Castlewood, this coming week-end to boulder amidst the canyon's colorful fall landscape.

Bouldering Colorado Presentation Well Received

October 2nd Bouldering Colorado presentation at Neptune Mountaineering went very well and was applauded by its enthusiastic participants. The slide and video presentation also entailed music scores that I composed with the help of Garage Band.  A mixed group of beginner, intermediate and advanced climbers asked constructive questions at the shows end, and I offered any, and all explanations or elaboration to their inquiries.  Questions ranged from where, and what area should I start as a new comer to bouldering, to will there be an update or inclusion to other areas that are not mentioned in the book, to what I will do with the information that I have received that is in conflict with other climbers information such as names of rocks and problems.  Replying to the latter, I said, that after looking at the information we will apply it, should it be note worthy, to the next edition. 

John's Blog

Hi Jamie,

I'd like to take a moment to address a few of the points you make. I was the editor of this book and worked with Bob to put it together. I have edited about two dozen climbing guidebooks and how-to-climb books, and also been a climber and user of climbing guidebooks for about twenty years. I'm not going to say that I'm perfect or that we did everything perfectly when putting this book together. There are always things that can be done differently and better, in hindsight. You can be assured that we will work to improve the book when it is revised, which is what we always strive to do. Climbing guides are a gigantic amount of work and the information includes hundreds of thousands of tiny details. Sometimes it is only through the revision process that these details can all be made accurate.

Colorado Bouldering Guidebook Embarrassment

First I will ask a bunch of questions that have not been answered by either Falcon Press or Bob. Failure to even address these issues seems to show a lack of concern or knowledge on the subject.

Why is an area (with a picture) included in this guidebook that was destroyed (to build a dam) 7 years ago? Was the author, who asserts himself as an expert (having gotten standing ovations for his work) unaware of this?

Why are there several areas that are on private property listed in the guidebook?  Does the author share the concerns of the community at large that having climbers tramping around private areas is bad for both landowners and climbers alike? 

B3 know it all strikes again!

Thanks so much for divulging the information that you and your crew have kept somewhat seclusive for so long. I find it interesting, how on your website, B3, you describe your finding these pristine gems of rock and your modus operendi for setting your course upon them. Sounds like a real" leave no trace" agenda. Your record of state of the art ascents has been obvious to me as I watched the boulders change over the years. Ten years ago, when you were just starting out on your bouldering quest, I was finishing the manuscript for my 5th bouldering guide better know as "Best of Boulder Bouldering". When I complied the info for Mount Evans and Rocky Mountain, I chose to keep the descriptions brief, and expose very little in comparison to what I could tell had been done, or that you claim to have developed. When editing the manuscript which was much larger at the time their were a few discrepencies and it is obvious to those of us you know the areas. I find them quite minor and will not affect you state of the arters, and certainly not affect those new learners who could careless about the elitist boulderer.



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